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Toyota Engine Swap

Printed From: Rocket City Rock Crawlers
Category: General
Forum Name: General 4x4 Discussion
Forum Description: Tech Talk
URL: http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11759
Printed Date: 29 March 2024 at 4:04am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Toyota Engine Swap
Posted By: alabamatoy
Subject: Toyota Engine Swap
Date Posted: 18 December 2015 at 3:31pm


The old 22RE is out and sitting on a engine stand on the floor.  The trans/xfer cases will come out tomorrow.  85K10 John has agreed to rebuild the xfer cases and install the new Marlin Total Spline input gear.

I purchased this truck earlier this week: http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/34516135" rel="nofollow - http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/34516135



Its a rollover, salvage title, but the engine runs (supposedly).  Now I gotta get it here and start removing the drivetrain and engine electrical system.  Its at a  Copart yard in Hurricane (Charleston) WV.  I may be driving up there Sunday and bringing it back Monday, we'll see.  Kari is NOT happy about the prospect of another tatty Toyota in the driveway.  Im hopeful it wont be there too long.

When Im done, I hope to have the old 86 4Runner with a much lower-mileage (140K) engine and transmission.  The 5VZ-FE in the Taco is rated at 190HP versus the tired old 22RE rated at 115HP.  I want to climb the million-dollar highway out of Silverton in 2 years in 3rd or 4th gear instead of screaming along at about 14MPH in 1st.

The 22RE apparently had rings that were pretty much gone, and it was getting so much blowby that it was blowing oil out through the PCV and valve cover vents into the intake.  This is what was making it foul plugs out there in Colorado.  The intake was totally slathered in oil, all the way out to the MAF filter box.

I have an Inchworm adapter which will mate the R150 5 speed from the Taco to the old gear-driven xfer case with the upgraded Marlin 23-spline shaft.

Lots to do.... I have to install a different oil pan on the motor (thanks to extremerocrigs for a great deal on that!) and drill the block for moving the dipstick.  I have to cut off the old 22RE engine mounts and install new ones, repositioning the engine to make room for the crossover exhaust pipe.  I will probably have to modify the ancient Budbuilt dual xfer case cross member and adjust the length of both driveshafts.  Im sure there will be lots of other surprises. I will probably put a new clutch on the V6, along with some maintenance items like new timing belt and water pump.

And then there is the joy of grafting two wiring systems together.  They are both Toyota, but they are 15 years apart in design.  Should be fun.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member



Replies:
Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 18 December 2015 at 5:56pm
That will be a completely different truck after this and you can't go wrong with the 5VZ. If I can determine if it will fit would you be interested in selling the brake booster. I was just thinking about your square tubing sliders as I am starting a set next week, yours are 2x4 aren't they?

John


-------------
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 19 December 2015 at 9:02am
Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

If I can determine if it will fit would you be interested in selling the brake booster.


I shouldnt have any need for that.  I will need to offset the cost as much as I can by parting out what's left.  The only thing I really need at this point other than the engine, transmission and wiring harness is the rear diff - the one in my wife's 4Runner is worn out.

Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

I was just thinking about your square tubing sliders as I am starting a set next week, yours are 2x4 aren't they?


Yes.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: Toydawg
Date Posted: 19 December 2015 at 9:43am
What are your plans for the York/OBA system from the 22RE?

-------------
1984 Toyota pickup, locked 5.29s, dual cases, Longfields, 22R with low range cam and header.


Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 19 December 2015 at 5:02pm
Thanks Doc, let me know when it would be convenient to come over.

-------------
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 20 December 2015 at 12:46am
Originally posted by Toydawg Toydawg wrote:

What are your plans for the York/OBA system from the 22RE?
No decision on that.  I suspect the Yorkie wont come close to fitting in the engine bay with the bigger V6 motor in there.  But I want to try...

What's it worth?


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: bluetoy
Date Posted: 20 December 2015 at 3:47am
Doc, let me know what I can do to help. Don't worry about the wiring, I've got that figured out. The 5vz wiring is exactly the same as the 3rz swaps I've been doing.

You will need to get a 10k-ohm 1/4 watt resistor to solder on the board inside the tachometer to make it work with the coil pack motor. Then there is a device you need to make the 6cyl signal read correctly on the 4cyl tach. I can't remember exactly who makes it, but it is easy to find if you search.

I can do your driveshafts as well if you want.

You will need to build a new crossover tube for the exhaust that dumps on the passenger side.

You will end up having to modify your hood, as in a scoop, in order to clear the intake plenum. The 5vz has a really tall intake and it will contact the hood without a body lift on the cab.

You won't have to drill the block for the dipstick, there is a plug that knocks out.

In all, it's an easy swap. You will love it when you are done.

Feel free to give me a call with any questions.

-------------
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   


Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 20 December 2015 at 4:57am
I read somewhere that 2000 and later did not have the extra dipstick hole and I had to drill mine, PITA. Apparently my engine is a 2000 model .

-------------
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: Toydawg
Date Posted: 20 December 2015 at 8:30am
Originally posted by alabamatoy alabamatoy wrote:

Originally posted by Toydawg Toydawg wrote:

What are your plans for the York/OBA system from the 22RE?
No decision on that.  I suspect the Yorkie wont come close to fitting in the engine bay with the bigger V6 motor in there.  But I want to try...

What's it worth?
 
I don't have any idea what it's worth, but if you can't get it to work with the 5VZ we might have opportunity to figure it out...Wink


-------------
1984 Toyota pickup, locked 5.29s, dual cases, Longfields, 22R with low range cam and header.


Posted By: bluetoy
Date Posted: 20 December 2015 at 9:43am
Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

I read somewhere that 2000 and later did not have the extra dipstick hole and I had to drill mine, PITA. Apparently my engine is a 2000 model .


I'm not sure on the 5vz. I just got done swapping an 2004 2RZ in an '81 and it had the extra hole in it.

-------------
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   


Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 20 December 2015 at 11:13am
Originally posted by bluetoy bluetoy wrote:

Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

I read somewhere that 2000 and later did not have the extra dipstick hole and I had to drill mine, PITA. Apparently my engine is a 2000 model .


I'm not sure on the 5vz. I just got done swapping an 2004 2RZ in an '81 and it had the extra hole in it.


There was a boss in the casting where the hole was supposed to be but no hole and I did it in the truck so that probably made it much worse.


-------------
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 22 December 2015 at 12:51am
The Yotatech forum has a heeeYUGE amount of info on these swaps.  See  http://www.yotatech.com/f160/" rel="nofollow - http://www.yotatech.com/f160/   There is a sticky thread on the dipstick.  Apparently the 2000 and later 5VZ blocks no longer have the plugged hole, just a boss.  The general wisdom seems to be that its best if you can drill it from the bottom, when you have the pan off anyhow.  See  http://www.yotatech.com/f160/dipstick-relocation-3-4-swap-236525/" rel="nofollow - http://www.yotatech.com/f160/dipstick-relocation-3-4-swap-236525/ for some pics.

I will also need to tap/thread the original dipstick hole and put a small bolt in it to plug it, unless someone has a better suggestion.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 22 December 2015 at 12:57am
The taco is here.  I drove up to lovely Hurricane, WV and brought it back yesterday.  John Griffin has offered to let me add it to his growing Toy parts collection (under a roof, too! :-)  I will probably drag it over there later today.

-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: CJ7OX
Date Posted: 22 December 2015 at 4:54am
Nice, Doc!

-------------
~Sean
Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But the U.S. ARMED FORCES don't have that problem. -Reagan

MOLON LABE
85ish CJ-7/06 CTD



Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 22 December 2015 at 8:02am
I left the old dipstick tube in place and cut the end off of the dipstick. Now I have 3.



-------------
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 29 December 2015 at 2:30pm
The taco engine is out!

The 3.4 started just fine in the Taco, and idled nicely.  I *think* I got a good motor.  We pulled it out today:






Now I have to replace the clutch, rear main seal (not absolutely necessary, but so easy to get at right now) and timing belt, water pump, valve cover seals (leaking a bit), remove the oil pan and replace with correct one, install the correct dipstick (which involves drilling the block :-(   All of that to get the engine ready to go into the old 4Runner.

Also have to remove the 5 speed R150 transmission from the Taco, but that should be easy.

The Taco has a good right front fender, passenger door, tailgate, bedliner, sliding rear window, seats, extended-cab rear side windows, A/C compressor, and probably lots of other odds and ends I havent thought of.  LMK if you want something off the truck.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: 83K10
Date Posted: 31 December 2015 at 1:01pm
Doc working on disconnecting the last few things before pulling it.

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/20151229_163752_zpsocspyt9u.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

This was a West Virginia truck. We had one of the hardest times separating the engine from the transmission that I've ever encountered. We literally had to use two 3 ft pry bars to get it forced apart. I think the pilot bearing was rusted to the input shaft. The rest of it seems to be going along pretty easy. The dip stick tube looks bad at first but I really don't think there will be much to it. The crossover pipe looks to be the worst of it.


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 05 January 2016 at 8:04am
Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

Thanks Doc, let me know when it would be convenient to come over.


I forgot all about this. I'll ping John and see if he can pull the brake booster and bring to the club meeting Thursday night, can you make that meeting? If so, please bring the lifting strap that goes on the right side of the engine and tools for holding the harmonic balancer, cam pulleys and the timing belt tensioner compressing tool that you had offered.

LMK if you can make Thursday night's meeting so I don't waste John's time. Do you need the MC also?

-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 05 January 2016 at 8:07am
Originally posted by 83K10 83K10 wrote:

This was a West Virginia truck.


I think this is why I got such a good price on it. The frame on the drivers side just forward of the rear wheel opening was rusted almost all the way through. There seems to be very little rust/corrosion on the engine/transmission though.

-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 05 January 2016 at 11:09am
Originally posted by alabamatoy alabamatoy wrote:

Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

Thanks Doc, let me know when it would be convenient to come over.


I forgot all about this. I'll ping John and see if he can pull the brake booster and bring to the club meeting Thursday night, can you make that meeting? If so, please bring the lifting strap that goes on the right side of the engine and tools for holding the harmonic balancer, cam pulleys and the timing belt tensioner compressing tool that you had offered.

LMK if you can make Thursday night's meeting so I don't waste John's time. Do you need the MC also?


Doc, I no longer need the booster unless the one I got at Davis fails. I work second shift so I won't make the meeting. I will be in Huntsville tomorrow if you can meet me and give you the tools or I can drop them somewhere. Just let me know, always up for a little road trip to get out.

John


-------------
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: 50Willys
Date Posted: 05 January 2016 at 11:34am
Hey John, If you can't meet with Doc, I'm going to the meeting so I can get the tools from you Thursday and take them to the meeting.


-------------
Bob S.

'96 Cherokee, 4.0L w/Auto Trans & locked D44s

'99 Dodge 2500 CTD Tow Rig


Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 06 January 2016 at 12:24pm
Originally posted by 50Willys 50Willys wrote:

Hey John, If you can't meet with Doc, I'm going to the meeting so I can get the tools from you Thursday and take them to the meeting.


How would you like to coordinate?


-------------
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: 50Willys
Date Posted: 06 January 2016 at 3:18pm
I can come to your house around 3:00 PM tomorrow. You still live on Eastwood?

-------------
Bob S.

'96 Cherokee, 4.0L w/Auto Trans & locked D44s

'99 Dodge 2500 CTD Tow Rig


Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 06 January 2016 at 3:30pm
Sounds good to me, PM sent. 

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"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 07 January 2016 at 2:57am
John and Bob, thanks much for doing this.

-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 07 January 2016 at 10:42am
Doc, I also have the FSM's (3 manuals) for my 99 4runner if they would be of any help. Just let me know.

John


-------------
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 09 January 2016 at 1:59am
Progress....  The engine got the old oil pan removed in prep for the relocated sump.  The valve covers were removed and new seals installed, valve covers replaced.  The damaged harmonic-balancer/pulley was removed, and the various covers removed to replace the timing belt, belt tensioner and idler pulley/bearing and water pump.  All that stuff is back on, awaiting delivery of a new harmonic balancer.  I still need to drill the dipstick hole and reinstall the oil pan, and put all the wiring back on, and it will be ready to go.

Nick (bluetoy) has offered to help me with the wiring in exchange for some bits from the Taco.  I think this will be a much quicker and lower-risk approach than trying to figure all that wiring out on my own.

J Cross, thanks for the tools - I will get this stuff back to you in a few weeks.  LMK if you need it sooner.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 15 March 2016 at 7:11am
So its been a while since I updated this.

I got derailed for several weeks for my lovely bride to have knee replacement. She is doing well, but we get to do it all again this fall.



The engine is pretty much ready to go in. We have fabbed a prototype cross exhaust pipe:


This type of fab work is much more difficult than it looks. But we have a tac-welded prototype and the next step is to drag (or push) the old 4rnr into the shop and hang the engine and transmission in it for the first time.

Clearance issues are expected everywhere. If the exhaust crossover clears, then I can look at how much room I have for a heat shield for the firewall (I have a sheet of Al and some woodstove insulation) and heat shields for the clutch slave cylinder and the catalyst. We have fabbed motor mounts and will be able to see how well they are going to fit.

I still have to deal with the evap emissions, relocating the battery the parking brake and speedometer cable. Also the shifter location will require some slight floor modifications. I am hoping that the xfer case brackets will work with minimal modification.

And then there's the electrical system.....

-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: 50Willys
Date Posted: 15 March 2016 at 12:19pm
Kari, Get well soon!!!

Doc, Good progress, hope everything fits!


-------------
Bob S.

'96 Cherokee, 4.0L w/Auto Trans & locked D44s

'99 Dodge 2500 CTD Tow Rig


Posted By: 83K10
Date Posted: 15 March 2016 at 5:48pm
We're building the exhaust out of 304 Stainless steel. We couldn't get the flanges from anywhere so we drew them up in cad and cut them out on my plasma table using some 3/8" 304 plate.

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/20160304_161449_zps8obze2ob.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

They fit pretty well first attempt. We found we need to slightly enlarge the center hole because the 2" mandrel bent tubing we're using isn't quite round after being bent.

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/20160304_182520_zpsiqdhkbvi.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: CJ7OX
Date Posted: 16 March 2016 at 4:49am
Speeding recovery to Kari! Good looking motor, Doc!

-------------
~Sean
Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But the U.S. ARMED FORCES don't have that problem. -Reagan

MOLON LABE
85ish CJ-7/06 CTD



Posted By: dontoy
Date Posted: 28 March 2016 at 7:13am
Doc hope Kari gets back on her feet soon and feeling better than she has in some time.

Toy progress looking good. Having done a Toy 4 gas to GM 6 gas and a Toy 6 gas to ISUZU 4 diesel I can fully relate to what your doing. The list grows and grows!

Don

-------------
1985 ToyBuggy w/TBI GM4.3/TH350, Marlin doubler, 4.88's, locked front & rear, 37" TSL SXII, and other stuff.


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 06 April 2016 at 9:09am

Kari is doing very well with her new knee.

And speaking of transplants....we made some progress on the Toyota.  Here is the new motor and transmission on its way in...



And here in its new home:


There is still a lot to be done.  This was primarily just a test fit, to get the motor mounts installed and to ensure that the prototype exhaust crossover would fit.

Speaking of the motor mounts, here are the three evolutions of the mounts:


From right to left above, this is the Offroadsolutions mount (very thin), our interpretation of that mount in some decent thickness material, and then the final mount.  We discovered that in order to use the ORS mount, you had to go buy 3.0 V6 mounts and engine side tabs.....so John redrew the mount on the CAD in about 10 minutes, cut new ones out, and welded them together.  This will probably become a product soon - 5VZ weld-in motor mounts that fit onto a stock 5VZ instead of making you go scrounge parts off a three-point-slow V6. 

Also note John's incredible new welding table.  The plasma table is barely visible on the drivers side of the Toyota.

Here's a shot of his main shop:


You can see the knee-mill at left of the above pic.  There is a monstrous wonderful old lathe next to it.  I have no idea how to use that stuff, but John does.

I am hopeful that I will have time to pull the engine back out again this weekend and we can finish up the exhaust crossover, then I can start working on the heat shielding on the tranny tunnel.  We will finish weld the mounts while the engine is back out and prime/paint them.  Then its on to the thousand other things it takes to fit a 2000 model engine and transmission into a 1986 model truck.

If you have some parts you need fabricated, John (GSI) can take a CAD drawing and cut it out in very short order.





-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 06 April 2016 at 9:49am
Here's his plasma table in action:


This is cutting out the 5VZ exhaust flanges.  In this case, I bought the material (1/4" 304 Stainless) and sent him the CAD file.  He had to make some minor tweaks to the CAD file but basically it worked out exactly like we wanted.  My point is, this is a really cool resource for those of us who do some hobby shop (or even professional) fabrication.  Send John a CAD file, then work out what all is involved in making what you want, what materials etc and he can either cut it out and give you the pieces, or actually fab it for you based on your drawing.

....for a small fee, of course.LOL


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: 83K10
Date Posted: 06 April 2016 at 4:12pm
I've actually made two more versions of that 5VZ mount this week. I'm trying to make them a little stronger and easier to produce. I plan to do a run of these and release them in a couple of weeks if all goes well.

My engine hoist wouldn't pick up the 5vz tall enough to put it into Doc's 4runner. We decided to lift it with my com along. I've got a really big one rated to dead lift 4000 lbs. I wouldn't recommend trying to do this with a little hard ware store version. We put the pulley to one of the building's beams and attached the com along to one of the down legs of the beam so we could operate it while standing on the floor instead of having to be on a ladder.

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/20160403_122222_zpso88drkou.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/20160403_122227_zps64dk6mtk.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

This was definitely a 'will it fit' moment. I will not be doing it this way again. It was a pain to get the engine/trans to angle down enough to go in. It took some creative rigging and some wrestling with it.

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/20160403_123507_zpsd9fyuslu.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Doc being very relieved that it actually fits in the engine bay.

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/20160403_162605_zpsmnrqsfpg.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

Fitting the new motor mount brackets. We managed to get all the dimensions good on the first try. This is trickier than it sounds. The engine is just kinda hanging there in space as we're trying to shove a tape measure down beside the frame and read it accurately. The frame is also rounded pretty good on the corners and Doc's has some extra plates welded on in this area.

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/20160403_194354_zpsbwgfqttr.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">




Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 07 April 2016 at 12:39am
Doc is going to think he's in a new truck. I really like the exhaust crossover piping, it makes me want to do that to my 4runner. John do you have any idea what you would charge for the crossover piping as a DIY kit? All looks great so far.

-------------
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: 83K10
Date Posted: 08 April 2016 at 1:13pm
Yeah he probably will with the power it should have vs a 22re. It doesn't look like our intended routing is going to work out. We don't have quite enough room to come through where we wanted. I think we're going to dump it further forward. The slave cylinder is in our way. We've looking at using a bellhousing from a 3VZ version of an R150F as it's on the other side.

I really haven't thought about offering the crossover piping as a DIY kit. It's all 304 Stainless so whoever bought it would have to be able to tig weld stainless. It wouldn't turn out well to try to MIG this. I do plan to make and sell them finished at some point. I've got some contacts that can do custom CNC bent tubes where there would be no pie cuts or really any fitting required. I'm going to check into that once I get a good functional prototype. If I do that, I guess I could offer it as a diy kit. You would still just about need a jig or an engine/transmission out and some careful measurements in order to clear the body. There's a decent bit of wiggle in the angles for this kind of stuff which translates to a different location at the other end of a long piece. There's not a lot of room for error to make it clear the body and the trans.


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 10 April 2016 at 3:20am
Originally posted by 83K10 83K10 wrote:

It doesn't look like our intended routing is going to work out. We don't have quite enough room to come through where we wanted. I think we're going to dump it further forward. The slave cylinder is in our way. We've looking at using a bellhousing from a 3VZ version of an R150F as it's on the other side.


Nick has a 3VZ bellhousing.  This will move the clutch slave cylinder to the passenger side.  Now I hafta go back and reinstall the clutch hydro lines I hacked out of the engine compartment because I thought I didnt need them.  Oh well.  But this will give John plenty of room to construct the collector where left and right exhaust melds together.  It will also give me more room to build a heatshield so my feet wont get fried on the trail.

The lower radiator hose looks like the original 22RE hose will work.  The upper looks like the 5VZ hose will work with some mods.  I will have to build a new fan shroud.

The R150 trans is much shorter than the W-whatever that was behind the 22RE.  So the trans tunnel hacking will continue - the gearshift will be forward of the 22RE location, and so will the two xfer case shifters.  But this should solve the horsecollar interference problems I had with the xfer case brake.

Speaking of xfer case brake, this is going to get redesigned also.  The TG brake itself is a glorious POS.  The caliper simply doesnt fit properly, and a goodly portion of the pad is actually not even on the face of the disc.  It wears over time, and soon you have two pads contacting each other and the parking brake no longer works.  SO....

The under-dash parking brake is gone - the cable exited the firewall right where the left exhaust manifold wanted to be.  Good riddance, I have cussed it innumerable times for jumping out and bashing my knee getting in and out of the truck over the years**.  It will be replaced with a hand-brake from a 2000 vintage 4Runner.  This will operate a http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-120-12069-bk" rel="nofollow - Willwood mechanical caliper .  So my 50-cal ammo box console has gotta go.  John already cut a nice bracket to mount the parking brake on the floorboards between the seats.   The brake cable will be short and go through the floor to the xfer case brake and Willwood caliper.


** - Side rant - the hand parking brake is still light-years better than the ridiculous foot operated parking brake in my Ford F250.  The IDIOTS who designed this brake apparently have never considered that it gets used by people with mud on their shoes.  Many times I have gotten in the Ford after having stomped the parking brake leaving mud on the pedal, released the parking brake only to have the pedal launch a glob of mud like a little trebuchet.  And its fitted perfectly to put that glob of mud right in your left eye.  I have had this happen several times and each time I curse Henry Ford and all his descendants.




-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: 83K10
Date Posted: 14 December 2016 at 9:12am
It's been way to long since an update for this. We have rebuilt the t cases and are working on a crossmember for the doubler with the 5vz R150 swap. The t cases are in a much different location due to the different lengths of the engine/trans.

There's tons of little things to do to make everything work out. I welded up this bung to a piece of aluminum tubing for some of the intake piping the other day. The factory setup won't work as the maf housing is attached to the air box with no way of attaching another hose to it.

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/20161213_105524_zpsogncijm3.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 24 December 2016 at 10:57am
Progress!  Haven't posted any updates in a while...but the project progresses, just very slowly.

Here is the final assembly of the xfer case.  We had actually assembled it once before, then realized that I had only a weak 21 spline input in the rear reduction box, and with this big stout torquey 3.4, it probably wouldn't last.  I have broken one input shaft in this box already.  In the process of assembly, we discovered that the rear reduction box also had a nice crack in it, so that was also replaced.










-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 24 December 2016 at 11:15am
Here we cut the first prototype of the crossmember.  The 3.4 with the R150 trans is shorter than the older 2.4 with whatever transmission it had.  The rear of the transfer case is about 2 inches forward of where it was.



You can see how nicely this table cuts, John has pretty much dialed-in the settings.  This is just 16ga sheet (I think) because we wanted to cut out the new design and check for fit and such.



Here it is on top of the original crossmember.  We found a couple of problems.  Its very easy to get disoriented when doing this on CAD, and we put the clearance for the front driveshaft on the wrong side, so that will have to be corrected.  You can also see how much father forward the mounts are than the original.  The actual part will be cut from 1/4 plate.



You can see in the photo above that the holes on the "wings" dont line up, this is because the center section has not been bent to the necessary profile, once bent they aligned very nicely.  The final part will also have a skid plate added underneath to further protect the expensive xfer case.  It will be cut from 1/4 plate also and will be much wider than the center section you see here.  John got the mounting holes correct for the skid plate, and the cool thing is you just copy that into another file, draw the plate around it where you want it, and cut it out.  Then the plate will be put in the CNC mill to have the holes cut very precisely.  The plasma cuts nice holes, but the smaller the hole, the more sloppy its cuts.  So what John does is just have the plasma etch the center location of the hole rather than cutting it, then let the CNC cut the hole.  The holes for the xfercase mounts have to be countersunk to accept countersunk hex screws so the skid plate can mount flush.  The CNC can do all that.  We will tap the ones for the skidplate after that.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: 50Willys
Date Posted: 24 December 2016 at 8:50pm
Good progress Doc & John!  When do you get to bring it home?


-------------
Bob S.

'96 Cherokee, 4.0L w/Auto Trans & locked D44s

'99 Dodge 2500 CTD Tow Rig


Posted By: 83K10
Date Posted: 24 December 2016 at 10:34pm
No idea when it will be going home. It's very time consuming dealing with all the little details.

We'll be cutting the cross member out of 3/8" plate. I'm not sure Doc's explanation of our process was clear. I'll give it a try. When cutting out parts on a cnc plasma you're limited in how small a detail you can achieve as you're cutting with a flame that is 0.050" to 0.100" across. The thicker the plate, generally the wider the kerf of the cut. This makes it difficult to get good sma) holes in thicker plates. One solution for this is to use our engraver on the cnc plasma table to center punch the hole locations. After finishing cutting out the part these center punch marks can be used to locate the holes. They can be drilled by hand, in a drill press, or a mill. We'll be using our cnc mill to drill the pattern. The punch marks are still useful in lining up the plate on the mill table using a centerfinder.


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 27 December 2016 at 9:52pm
Major progress.  We got more done on Friday and Monday of the past week than I have in the past 3 months.  The xfer cases are installed, mated up to the V6 R150 transmission, and everything fits.  I have to butcher my floorboards some more, but that's a story for another day.

The crossmember!  We cut it out on the plasma, using the same file as the previous thin prototype, but with some minor changes.  First you will see the engraver doing the lettering (which it does in a seemingly random order) and the GSI logo (designed by yours truly), then it will mark all the center points for all of the holes to be drilled on the CNC.  Then we let 'er rip with cutting out the clearance holes and the wing mounting holes, and the outline of the item.



Here is the crossmember in the CNC mill ready for having all the transfercase mount holes and the skidplate holes cut, tapped and countersunk.





We ran into a problem with the tap - the drill chuck simply would not hold it tight enough, so we had to hand tap the holes, but use a centering fixture under the mill head to ensure that the tap was not wobbling around like it would if you were just holding it.

Here's the finished items:





You can see the countersunk holes for the mount screws, and the smaller threaded holes around the center section for the skidplate mounting screws.  The bends were much easier than I thought it would be - the 20 ton press with air assist just bent it, no fuss.  We even over bent one slightly and had to bring it back about 10 degrees, and it was no sweat.

Here it is mounted in place:



The trans jack is just supporting the weight, the crossmember is actually installed on the mounts, all the bolt holes lined up!





-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: CJ7OX
Date Posted: 28 December 2016 at 1:36pm
Looks great, John & Doc!

-------------
~Sean
Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But the U.S. ARMED FORCES don't have that problem. -Reagan

MOLON LABE
85ish CJ-7/06 CTD



Posted By: dontoy
Date Posted: 03 January 2017 at 4:23pm
Nice work guys...........love the HD equipment!
 
Don


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1985 ToyBuggy w/TBI GM4.3/TH350, Marlin doubler, 4.88's, locked front & rear, 37" TSL SXII, and other stuff.


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 07 January 2017 at 8:14pm
More progress....the intake is assembled:



This ultimately will be temporary - I want to create some kind of cold air intake, perhaps even a snorkle.  But this should suffice for now.



-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: CJ7OX
Date Posted: 20 January 2017 at 9:31am
Looking good!

-------------
~Sean
Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But the U.S. ARMED FORCES don't have that problem. -Reagan

MOLON LABE
85ish CJ-7/06 CTD



Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 22 January 2017 at 5:31pm
More progress!  Got the crossmember back from powdercoat, and http://www.kreativekoatings.com/" rel="nofollow - Kreative Koatings seems to have done a pretty darn good job.



We ran into a problem, some of the crossmember mounting holes along the frame rails are stripped.  John punched out the ones which were inside the frame, set a nut in its place, and TIGed it in place.  The stripped ones which were outbard of the frame we just drilled out and put a nut on top of the old one, and TIGed that in place.  The problem:


Tease a TIG wire through the frame hole to a access hole further down the frame, put the nut over the TIG wire, wiggle it till the nut appears over the hole where you want it. 

TIG it in place.


The solution:


The crossmember in place:


In this pic, you can also see the temporary tacked-together exhust.  New 2.5" stainless tubing.  A short section will have to be added after the catalyst to provide a mounting location for the downstream O2 sensor.  The upstream will be mounted just downstream of the bend in the right of the photo. 

I am also adding a stainless heatshield to further protect the shackle and the xfercase and my FEET from the catalyst heat.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: 83K10
Date Posted: 23 January 2017 at 7:40am
Here's a better picture of the cross member in Doc's toyota. One side benefit of the V6 swap is it moves the transfer cases forward several inches. This gives the t case e brake a lot more room in the tunnel. Notice the hole in the top of the picture. It's where the previous modification to clear the brake was.

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/0121171456a_zpszp7gsnch.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 23 January 2017 at 9:03am
Originally posted by 83K10 83K10 wrote:

Notice the hole in the top of the picture. It's where the previous modification to clear the brake was. 


Yes, correct.  And this begats some sheetmetal changes to cover up the previous mods.  If this were a stock floorboard, it would have almost fit with no mods!  The transmission shifter is moved forward slightly, so it needs about 1.5" of sheetmetal removed.  As it is, I have to cover the gaping hole from the previous disc clearance, then make a long piece to allow fitting of the 3 shifter boots.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: bluetoy
Date Posted: 24 January 2017 at 8:19pm
Awesome job! That crossmember looks great.

-------------
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 05 February 2017 at 5:24pm
So I learned something...JIC flare fittings are not the same flare as standard US.  SAE flares are 45deg, but JIC are 37deg.  So I hadta buy a 37deg flare tool.  I got a Ridgid, and it seems to be *very* well made and worked great on 3/8" steel tubing.


The flares came out very well. 



We made a hardline that runs across the top of the motor, and used rubber insulated brackets to hold it in place.  We put a 6mm bolt on top of the strange little Toyota shouldered 6mm bolts that hold the big plastic shroud on the front of the engine, and John tigged them together.  Two of these hold the shroud on and now also hold the hardline in place.


Here is the hardline, mounted in place, with a flex line at each end.




I ran another piece of hardline across in front of the radiator as a return line.  The entire power steering is ready to roll, on to the next item....probably next is the battery box.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 19 March 2017 at 5:15pm
The wiring has begun...

I pulled the dash out of both the donor Tacoma and my old 4Runner.  The wiring harness was removed from the Tacoma and laid out on the shop floor and much of the interior bundles were peeled to allow access to the individual wires:

Nick pawes through this mess, while chanting some magic words and looking a few times at some wiring diagrams, and separates what I need from what I dont need.  We were left with:


There are actually a few more bits, but this is most of it.  The entire engine harness, of course, is already in the truck.  Or most of it was, I finished installing most of that today.
Next, Nick begins to graft the required remnants of the Tacoma harness into the 4Runner.


He will connect the start and power connections, the OBDII port, the tach, the check engine light, and a few other items.  He wires up a new "circuit opening relay" (essentially a fuel pump relay) and another EFI relay.

The ECU will have to be mounted just right of the passenger's feet, there is simply nowhere else to put it without a whole lot of effort - the wiring bundle from the engine that comes through the firewall is probably close to 2 inches in diameter, and its just too short to put the ECU box anywhere else unless I go to a WHOLE lot of trouble to build some kind of an extension cable.

Also, I have to pull apart one more of the Tacoma harnesses which has the connection to the 3.4 harness that goes underneath the engine - it has the connections to the starter, battery, and alternator.  This stuff has to be connected to the old 4Runner via some custom cables.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 19 March 2017 at 5:59pm
The exhaust is coming together as well. John drew up the necessary Toyota O2 sensor bungs and milled them from 304 stainless.  These will be available on his store site soon.  They are cut for a 2.5" diameter exhaust pipe.  Here is one tac welded onto the exhaust:


Here he is tacing the second bung on.  You can see the entire front portion of the exhaust:


Here's the muffler:


Im worried about this muffler being too loud, so we are putting a flange on after it, first so we dont have to remove the entire exhaust to replace the tailpipe if I ever crunch it on a rock, and second it will allow me to possibly add a second muffler to quieten it down.

Some TIG porn:







-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 27 March 2017 at 7:24am
It RUNS!  Nick finished merging the new computer and engine harness with the old 4Runner body wiring and instrument panel, and it works!  There was no exhaust on it, so we ran it only for a few seconds, and there's still a ton of little things to be done, and one big fuel leak, but that stuff is all doable....

It runs!  Its got almost 2 year old 91 octane Colorado 10% ethanol fuel in it, but it actually started right up and ran.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: cj8lvr
Date Posted: 27 March 2017 at 9:00am
Originally posted by alabamatoy alabamatoy wrote:

.....Its got almost 2 year old 91 octane Colorado 10% ethanol fuel in it, but it actually started right up and ran.


This made me cringe!  Pour that out in the bad neighbor's yard and get some real gasoline in it before you kill your "new" motor!  Dead


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___/| [_\__\],
l___l__L-O|||||O_
_()_)__()_)___()_)

Jake White
Owner of CartoTracks.com Trail Maps
Past RCRC - VP
Past Nat'l CJ-8 Scrambler Owners Association President


Posted By: dontoy
Date Posted: 27 March 2017 at 4:56pm
Nice going guys and congrats.
 
Good stuff....another engine transplant is alive!
 
Don


-------------
1985 ToyBuggy w/TBI GM4.3/TH350, Marlin doubler, 4.88's, locked front & rear, 37" TSL SXII, and other stuff.


Posted By: 83K10
Date Posted: 28 March 2017 at 9:59pm
I finished welding up those bungs and the rest of the pipes the other night.

http://s197.photobucket.com/user/Griffs_photos/media/0327171710_zpsib1ltz0o.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: 83K10
Date Posted: 28 March 2017 at 10:54pm
Proof of the 4runner running.




added the video preview


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http://www.motofarkles.com" rel="nofollow - Moto Farkles


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 02 April 2017 at 8:19am
Originally posted by 83K10 83K10 wrote:

I finished welding up those bungs and the rest of the pipes the other night.


I drove it around 83k10's yard yesterday...it moves under it own power for first time since December 2015!

But I *must* get that trash fuel out of the tank.  Nick, where is the fuel pump jumper?  I want to disconnect the fuel line just before the fuel filter and pump all that crap out.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: jarmumd
Date Posted: 03 April 2017 at 12:00pm
Isn't there a drain plug on the bottom of the tank?  both my efi and carb 4runner tanks had one, right in the center.


-------------
1984 4runner


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 03 April 2017 at 12:15pm
Originally posted by jarmumd jarmumd wrote:

Isn't there a drain plug on the bottom of the tank?  both my efi and carb 4runner tanks had one, right in the center.
Nick said something about that, but I havent looked.  Mine is so bashed in, I dont know if the drain is usable, but that's on my 2do list for next time out there.

Maybe I need to remove the sending/pump unit, stick a 2X4 down in there and sledgehammer it back into shape.  I've lost about 2 gal of capacity from the dent in the tank.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 24 April 2017 at 1:03pm
This past Saturday, I disconnected the fuel line at the filter, jumpered the fuel pump and ran about 7 gal of putrid fuel out of the tank.  It apparently has some baffles and such in the tank, since letting it sit for a few minutes would produce more fuel, then it would run out again, repeat.  Got as much of the old nasty fuel out as possible, put 5 gal fresh (although NOT sugar-free) gas in.  Loaded the 4Runner into the trailer and dragged it home to Madison.

So she's back in my garage after 15 months.  And John has a whole bunch more room for his own projects....

Got most of the battery mounting/tiedown done.  No more bungee cords!! Wooohooo, I can pass RCRC safety checks now....

Nick, I need your help with those last few connections and the Tachometer, would like to have a functional tachometer.

The interior will start going back in over the next couple weeks.  I hope to have it road/trail ready by end of May.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: 50Willys
Date Posted: 24 April 2017 at 7:16pm
Keep up the good work!


-------------
Bob S.

'96 Cherokee, 4.0L w/Auto Trans & locked D44s

'99 Dodge 2500 CTD Tow Rig


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 20 May 2017 at 7:52pm
Interior is largely done, but still have to wire up the coms gear (CB and ham radio) and the wonderful trucker fan on the dash.

While the whole dash was out, I replaced the A/C evaporator.  You wouldn't believe what was in there.  I thiought for a minute I had found the ghost of Brutus - there was a slug of doghair in there bigger than some dogs I have known, plus a lot of leaves and other crap.  The new evaporator is sealed up....at some point I will try to reanimate the A/C, but not right now.

The steering is done, and as Nick predicted, it sux.  The newer generation pumps just dont have the moxie that the old ones do.  A new PSC pump is $250, so it will hafta wait.

The exhaust is too loud.  It will do for now, but it sounds like some high-schooler fart-can Honda.

All the electrical is done, except the tachometer, which sux since I bought the Dakota Digital converter, but I can't seem to make it work.  I still have some things to tie down here and there, and I have to seal up the new engine harness where it goes through the firewall.

I still have yet to build a box to protect the ECU, which is right beside the passengers right foot.

I installed a hood scoop today, and cut holes in the hood to let the heat out.  That should help with keeping it cooler.  It runs with the original gauge showing just a wee bit higher than where the 4 cylinder motor usually ran, so I hope that will be OK.  It doesn't seem to creep up in temp at a light or anything like that.






-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: dontoy
Date Posted: 21 May 2017 at 8:15am
Good read Doc thanks for update. I'll look and see how my tack is wired up. I used the Dakota digital converter to condition the GM 6 cylinder signal for the toy 4 cylinder tachometer. Seems like it was not wired per directions to make it work.

Don

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1985 ToyBuggy w/TBI GM4.3/TH350, Marlin doubler, 4.88's, locked front & rear, 37" TSL SXII, and other stuff.


Posted By: dontoy
Date Posted: 21 May 2017 at 8:26am
Doc,

Also if you haven't done it you can remove the rubber seal that seals between the back of the hood and firewall. You can also put a few washers between the hood hinges and hood to lift the back of the hood to let heat out. This helped cool my 6 cylinder back when my ride still had that pesky sheet metal!

Don

-------------
1985 ToyBuggy w/TBI GM4.3/TH350, Marlin doubler, 4.88's, locked front & rear, 37" TSL SXII, and other stuff.


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 21 May 2017 at 1:23pm
Originally posted by dontoy dontoy wrote:

Doc,

Also if you haven't done it you can remove the rubber seal that seals between the back of the hood and firewall.


I had not thought of that.

Here's the scoop:





I put a drop-light at the scoop opening so you can see the vents.  I guess I could have had a "shaker" hood.  :-)

I got some rattle-cans of paint mixed to the Toyota original paint code.  At some point I will paint the scoop and some of the other plethora of colors on the truck back to the original color.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: dontoy
Date Posted: 22 May 2017 at 9:30am
Doc looks like that scoop should do the job. I did not know you could have rattle can paint custom mixed.

Don

-------------
1985 ToyBuggy w/TBI GM4.3/TH350, Marlin doubler, 4.88's, locked front & rear, 37" TSL SXII, and other stuff.


Posted By: bluetoy
Date Posted: 22 May 2017 at 7:36pm
You will have to solder a resistor on the tachometer board before it will work with the Tacoma engine signal. The box you bought just converts a six cylinder signal to a four cylinder signal. I have the resistors and can help if needed.


-------------
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   


Posted By: J CROSS
Date Posted: 23 May 2017 at 9:15am
[QUOTE=

The exhaust is too loud.  It will do for now, but it sounds like some high-schooler fart-can Honda.





I ended up using a Walker "quite flow" muffler and it has a low keyed rumble to it that I find acceptable.



-------------
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved by the level of thinking that created them"   Einstein


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 23 May 2017 at 9:35am
Originally posted by bluetoy bluetoy wrote:

You will have to solder a resistor on the tachometer board before it will work with the Tacoma engine signal. The box you bought just converts a six cylinder signal to a four cylinder signal. I have the resistors and can help if needed.


I need to know the correct resistor and where it goes.  I researched this and found answers that were all over and didnt really trust what I was finding: solder it here, NO, solder it THERE!  Some people had posted that the 6-cylinder signal is really a 3-cylinder signal since it has 3 coils, wasting a spark on alternating cylinders.  Later versions of the 5VZ (2002-on, I think) have coil-on-plug for all 6 cylinders, whereas mine only has coil on plug for 3, with a plug wire going to the paired cylinder.

I have a fairly high-end soldering station for small work on PCBs.  So I should be able to do it without destroying the board.

Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

I ended up using a Walker "quite flow" muffler and it has a low keyed rumble to it that I find acceptable.


I think mine is a Walker, but I have forgotten.  I'm not going to change the muffler because John did so much stainless TIG welding on it, so I will probably just add another cheapo muffler.  Hopefully 2 in series should quieten 'er down.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: RL-RRC
Date Posted: 24 May 2017 at 9:01am
Originally posted by alabamatoy alabamatoy wrote:

Here's the muffler:


Im worried about this muffler being too loud, 


Looks like a Magnaflow (which makes great quality stuff), and you called it. The can just isn't big enough to offer sufficient sound absorption.  


-------------
96 Lexus lx450
85 Toyota Truggy built by Don
02 Jeep WJ
Chance favors the prepared!



Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 18 June 2017 at 1:02pm
I continue to knock items off my 4Runner checklist.  The front DS is shortened and installed.  John's beautiful xfer-case skidplate is installed.  I pulled the rear diff and fixed a prodigious gear oil leak (has nothing to ddo with the swap...)  I found an el-cheapo 12" glasspack muffler for $19 at summitracing that I am going to add to tone down the ricer fart-can sound. 

I drove it to Decatur and back Saturday, no problems.  I'm getting a CEL, but Im pretty certain I know what it is, and I can live with it for the moment, it doesnt put it out of closed loop.  I sat in the Arby's drive-up line for quite a while Saturday (love those orange cream shakes, summer only, I think they have some meth in them or something...) and the engine coolant never got above 204degF, and the temp gauge stays rock solid.  I haven't heard the fan clutch engage yet, I hope it works right.

The intake air temps creep up, so at some point I will build a cold air box for the intake and possibly add louvers to the hood as an air inlet.  I wonder how much difference intake air temps make?  It crept up to around 115degF, but it drops to about 100 once you start moving.  How important is this?

I still havent got the tach working.  Nick, I will need your help with this.

I need a horn - yes, the compressed-air train horn is gone, no onboard air.




-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: 83K10
Date Posted: 18 June 2017 at 8:28pm
I know at least one of our toyota parts trucks has a horn on it if you want to go back with a factory one. The air intake temps lower is a good idea but if 115 is the highest you've seen, I wouldn't worry to much about it at the moment. It's not much different than driving on a really hot day in the summertime. It would be a good idea at some point to build an air box.


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 31 July 2017 at 9:30pm
I purchased a nice Hella dual horn from Amazon, and will eventually mount it below/behind the grill.

Jake came over and finish welded a good second muffler and tailpipe on the exhaust, along with two rubber mounts for the muffler.  The truck is now enjoyably quiet.  It still has some of that "ripping canvas" ricer sound to it, but its infinitely more bearable than it was with the single muffler.

I soldered a potentiometer onto my extra tach http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk3/toyota/tachmod.htm" rel="nofollow - per this writeup which is supposed to allow adjustment to get the tach showing what the V6 is really doing.

The last major task is the evap emissions.  I am partway through fabbing a bracket for the monstrous evap cannister, which has three separate computer sensors on it.  I am getting a "second trip" P0171 system too lean fault which I believe is from the evap stuff not being connected.  Once this and the tach are working, its pretty much a done project. 

The truck starts nicely, runs cool, and pulls soooo much better than the 4 cylinder....but it hasn't been in the woods yet!  I hope to drive it to the club meeting this week.


-------------
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 27 August 2017 at 9:10am
Finally got the rig out on the trail on the "Mexican Night Ride" last night.  She performed very well, but I still have some issues.  The power steering, as Nick predicted, is not working very well.  It blows PS fluid all over the place when it gets under load in the rocks, and I cannot tell where its coming from.  The cooling system worked well, she didnt overheat which I was very worried about.  I probably will still look at one of the various 4-row radiators available for this truck to provide some margin for error.

The engine is fantastic.  We did a few steep climbs on the ride last night, and each time it just did its job with no fuss.  "Oh, you need some torque?  Sure, here ya go!  Need more?  There's plenty!"  And it will idle through the slow stuff due to the idle control programming.

I have all the bracketry completed for the mongo monstrous evap box to mount under the hood on the drivers fenderwell.  It may go in today if I have time.  I hope this cures the lingering CEL.

One major design flaw...the Kenwood ham radio selector knob which changes the frequency rides against the gearshift boot when its in 1st gear, and in the rough stuff, the trans is moving around, so it randomly scrolls the ham radio frequency.  Redesign of the console....


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"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 27 August 2017 at 5:16pm
Evap install, ugly big box:



The finely crafted, uniquely fabricated bracketry:




Lots of ugly hoses and 3 separate electrical connections...but the computer seems to like it.  I drove around today, started it several times and no CELs.  Highly observant and dedicated readers of this thread will quickly point out that I have said this before....




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"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: dontoy
Date Posted: 30 August 2017 at 11:35am
Nice work Doc....as long as the ECM is 😊 I like the mounts!

Don

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1985 ToyBuggy w/TBI GM4.3/TH350, Marlin doubler, 4.88's, locked front & rear, 37" TSL SXII, and other stuff.


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 06 January 2018 at 10:41am
OK, so I think I can declare this project complete.  I still have some wiring to secure, a fan shroud to build, and a protective enclosure for the ECU, but the swap is essentially complete.  My last biggest hurdle was the power steering.  I finally got a TG pump mounted and a remote reservoir.





Notice the factory Toyota air filter box at lower left below.  $50 on eBay/  It breathes air from inside the right fender, so most of it will come from the passenger door hinge area.  That should mostly eliminate the high intake temps I was seeing with the intake in the engine compartment.



This airbox eliminated the CEL as well.  Apparently my Mass Airflow Sensor mounting and el-cheapo round filter was not to the computer's liking.  The factory airbox has a slight neck-down where the MAS is mounted, which causes an increase in airspeed (same volume / less cross section = higher velocity) which was causing the CEL...that's the only thing I can figure.  This allows me to run the factory air filter which is ubiquitous.

I learned an interesting lesson here related to this CEL.  I kept thinking I had a vaccum leak.  Everyone says spray starter fluid or propane around the area of the intake and when you get close to the vacuum leak, the engine will speed up.  No, doesnt work on engines with an idle control circuit.  I could spray starter fluid directly into the air intake, and the RPMs never budged.  The ECU is controlling the idle...

I have made so many brackets for this project.  I am getting good at making bracketry.  The bracket with the 3 nuts visible at lower left also holds the coolant overflow.  I will need to find a place to mount some kind of a windshield washer tank (alas, another bracket Dead ), as that had to go in order to place the airbox and overflow tank.


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"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: bluetoy
Date Posted: 07 January 2018 at 7:46pm
Outstanding job Doc!

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TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   


Posted By: stout22
Date Posted: 08 January 2018 at 6:59am
Are words like "ubiquitous" allowed on this site?
Looks great!


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stout22

76 Bronco

302, EFI, C4 Auto, 4.3 Atlas, 3.5" lift, 1" body, locked d44 and Locked 9"


Posted By: 98TJ
Date Posted: 08 January 2018 at 9:57am
Never underestimate the tenacity of a Yoter owner.

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1998 TJ 4.0 5spd Atlas 36" Swampers RE4.5 ARB's 44/44


Posted By: dontoy
Date Posted: 08 January 2018 at 6:13pm
Nice work Doc. Good to see you made it through this projec.


Don

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1985 ToyBuggy w/TBI GM4.3/TH350, Marlin doubler, 4.88's, locked front & rear, 37" TSL SXII, and other stuff.


Posted By: jarmumd
Date Posted: 25 January 2018 at 5:57pm
Congrats Doc, in the time you took to re-engine, I re-geared and upgraded brakes.  Life just gets in the way sometimes.


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1984 4runner


Posted By: alabamatoy
Date Posted: 07 March 2021 at 7:35am
The old Yota passed the mandated Hamilton County emission check! Clap  They hold the vehicle to the standards it was required to meet at time of manufacture, and in 86, apparently all that was required is a tailpipe sniff, which we passed.

The newer cars get something connected in place of the gas filler cap, and an electrical connection to the OBD-II port.  They also run a mirror under the car.  They did this on my F250, which is a diesel.  I asked the tester lady why she did that, and she said it was too look for a catalyst.  I told her, "You arent going to find a catalyst on this one, its a diesel!"  Whatever, bloody bureaucrats.  The whole test takes 10-15 minutes, but I had to wait for about 45 minutes each time due to people ahead of me.

Hamilton Co and the state are considering legislation to end the emissions testing, but a/o today it has not been approved, so we are having to run all our cars through the testing.


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"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

BRC Life Member


Posted By: 50Willys
Date Posted: 07 March 2021 at 9:13am
Thumbs Up Clap

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Bob S.

'96 Cherokee, 4.0L w/Auto Trans & locked D44s

'99 Dodge 2500 CTD Tow Rig



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