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alabamatoy View Drop Down
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    Posted: 18 December 2015 at 3:31pm


The old 22RE is out and sitting on a engine stand on the floor.  The trans/xfer cases will come out tomorrow.  85K10 John has agreed to rebuild the xfer cases and install the new Marlin Total Spline input gear.

I purchased this truck earlier this week: http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/34516135



Its a rollover, salvage title, but the engine runs (supposedly).  Now I gotta get it here and start removing the drivetrain and engine electrical system.  Its at a  Copart yard in Hurricane (Charleston) WV.  I may be driving up there Sunday and bringing it back Monday, we'll see.  Kari is NOT happy about the prospect of another tatty Toyota in the driveway.  Im hopeful it wont be there too long.

When Im done, I hope to have the old 86 4Runner with a much lower-mileage (140K) engine and transmission.  The 5VZ-FE in the Taco is rated at 190HP versus the tired old 22RE rated at 115HP.  I want to climb the million-dollar highway out of Silverton in 2 years in 3rd or 4th gear instead of screaming along at about 14MPH in 1st.

The 22RE apparently had rings that were pretty much gone, and it was getting so much blowby that it was blowing oil out through the PCV and valve cover vents into the intake.  This is what was making it foul plugs out there in Colorado.  The intake was totally slathered in oil, all the way out to the MAF filter box.

I have an Inchworm adapter which will mate the R150 5 speed from the Taco to the old gear-driven xfer case with the upgraded Marlin 23-spline shaft.

Lots to do.... I have to install a different oil pan on the motor (thanks to extremerocrigs for a great deal on that!) and drill the block for moving the dipstick.  I have to cut off the old 22RE engine mounts and install new ones, repositioning the engine to make room for the crossover exhaust pipe.  I will probably have to modify the ancient Budbuilt dual xfer case cross member and adjust the length of both driveshafts.  Im sure there will be lots of other surprises. I will probably put a new clutch on the V6, along with some maintenance items like new timing belt and water pump.

And then there is the joy of grafting two wiring systems together.  They are both Toyota, but they are 15 years apart in design.  Should be fun.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 December 2015 at 5:56pm
That will be a completely different truck after this and you can't go wrong with the 5VZ. If I can determine if it will fit would you be interested in selling the brake booster. I was just thinking about your square tubing sliders as I am starting a set next week, yours are 2x4 aren't they?

John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2015 at 9:02am
Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

If I can determine if it will fit would you be interested in selling the brake booster.


I shouldnt have any need for that.  I will need to offset the cost as much as I can by parting out what's left.  The only thing I really need at this point other than the engine, transmission and wiring harness is the rear diff - the one in my wife's 4Runner is worn out.

Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

I was just thinking about your square tubing sliders as I am starting a set next week, yours are 2x4 aren't they?


Yes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Toydawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2015 at 9:43am
What are your plans for the York/OBA system from the 22RE?
1984 Toyota pickup, locked 5.29s, dual cases, Longfields, 22R with low range cam and header.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 December 2015 at 5:02pm
Thanks Doc, let me know when it would be convenient to come over.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 December 2015 at 12:46am
Originally posted by Toydawg Toydawg wrote:

What are your plans for the York/OBA system from the 22RE?
No decision on that.  I suspect the Yorkie wont come close to fitting in the engine bay with the bigger V6 motor in there.  But I want to try...

What's it worth?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 December 2015 at 3:47am
Doc, let me know what I can do to help. Don't worry about the wiring, I've got that figured out. The 5vz wiring is exactly the same as the 3rz swaps I've been doing.

You will need to get a 10k-ohm 1/4 watt resistor to solder on the board inside the tachometer to make it work with the coil pack motor. Then there is a device you need to make the 6cyl signal read correctly on the 4cyl tach. I can't remember exactly who makes it, but it is easy to find if you search.

I can do your driveshafts as well if you want.

You will need to build a new crossover tube for the exhaust that dumps on the passenger side.

You will end up having to modify your hood, as in a scoop, in order to clear the intake plenum. The 5vz has a really tall intake and it will contact the hood without a body lift on the cab.

You won't have to drill the block for the dipstick, there is a plug that knocks out.

In all, it's an easy swap. You will love it when you are done.

Feel free to give me a call with any questions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 December 2015 at 4:57am
I read somewhere that 2000 and later did not have the extra dipstick hole and I had to drill mine, PITA. Apparently my engine is a 2000 model .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Toydawg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 December 2015 at 8:30am
Originally posted by alabamatoy alabamatoy wrote:

Originally posted by Toydawg Toydawg wrote:

What are your plans for the York/OBA system from the 22RE?
No decision on that.  I suspect the Yorkie wont come close to fitting in the engine bay with the bigger V6 motor in there.  But I want to try...

What's it worth?
 
I don't have any idea what it's worth, but if you can't get it to work with the 5VZ we might have opportunity to figure it out...Wink
1984 Toyota pickup, locked 5.29s, dual cases, Longfields, 22R with low range cam and header.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 December 2015 at 9:43am
Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

I read somewhere that 2000 and later did not have the extra dipstick hole and I had to drill mine, PITA. Apparently my engine is a 2000 model .


I'm not sure on the 5vz. I just got done swapping an 2004 2RZ in an '81 and it had the extra hole in it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 December 2015 at 11:13am
Originally posted by bluetoy bluetoy wrote:

Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

I read somewhere that 2000 and later did not have the extra dipstick hole and I had to drill mine, PITA. Apparently my engine is a 2000 model .


I'm not sure on the 5vz. I just got done swapping an 2004 2RZ in an '81 and it had the extra hole in it.


There was a boss in the casting where the hole was supposed to be but no hole and I did it in the truck so that probably made it much worse.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2015 at 12:51am
The Yotatech forum has a heeeYUGE amount of info on these swaps.  See http://www.yotatech.com/f160/  There is a sticky thread on the dipstick.  Apparently the 2000 and later 5VZ blocks no longer have the plugged hole, just a boss.  The general wisdom seems to be that its best if you can drill it from the bottom, when you have the pan off anyhow.  See http://www.yotatech.com/f160/dipstick-relocation-3-4-swap-236525/ for some pics.

I will also need to tap/thread the original dipstick hole and put a small bolt in it to plug it, unless someone has a better suggestion.


Edited by alabamatoy - 22 December 2015 at 12:59am
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The taco is here.  I drove up to lovely Hurricane, WV and brought it back yesterday.  John Griffin has offered to let me add it to his growing Toy parts collection (under a roof, too! :-)  I will probably drag it over there later today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJ7OX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2015 at 4:54am
Nice, Doc!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2015 at 8:02am
I left the old dipstick tube in place and cut the end off of the dipstick. Now I have 3.



Edited by J CROSS - 22 December 2015 at 8:09am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 December 2015 at 2:30pm
The taco engine is out!

The 3.4 started just fine in the Taco, and idled nicely.  I *think* I got a good motor.  We pulled it out today:






Now I have to replace the clutch, rear main seal (not absolutely necessary, but so easy to get at right now) and timing belt, water pump, valve cover seals (leaking a bit), remove the oil pan and replace with correct one, install the correct dipstick (which involves drilling the block :-(   All of that to get the engine ready to go into the old 4Runner.

Also have to remove the 5 speed R150 transmission from the Taco, but that should be easy.

The Taco has a good right front fender, passenger door, tailgate, bedliner, sliding rear window, seats, extended-cab rear side windows, A/C compressor, and probably lots of other odds and ends I havent thought of.  LMK if you want something off the truck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 December 2015 at 1:01pm
Doc working on disconnecting the last few things before pulling it.



This was a West Virginia truck. We had one of the hardest times separating the engine from the transmission that I've ever encountered. We literally had to use two 3 ft pry bars to get it forced apart. I think the pilot bearing was rusted to the input shaft. The rest of it seems to be going along pretty easy. The dip stick tube looks bad at first but I really don't think there will be much to it. The crossover pipe looks to be the worst of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2016 at 8:04am
Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

Thanks Doc, let me know when it would be convenient to come over.


I forgot all about this. I'll ping John and see if he can pull the brake booster and bring to the club meeting Thursday night, can you make that meeting? If so, please bring the lifting strap that goes on the right side of the engine and tools for holding the harmonic balancer, cam pulleys and the timing belt tensioner compressing tool that you had offered.

LMK if you can make Thursday night's meeting so I don't waste John's time. Do you need the MC also?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2016 at 8:07am
Originally posted by 83K10 83K10 wrote:

This was a West Virginia truck.


I think this is why I got such a good price on it. The frame on the drivers side just forward of the rear wheel opening was rusted almost all the way through. There seems to be very little rust/corrosion on the engine/transmission though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2016 at 11:09am
Originally posted by alabamatoy alabamatoy wrote:

Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

Thanks Doc, let me know when it would be convenient to come over.


I forgot all about this. I'll ping John and see if he can pull the brake booster and bring to the club meeting Thursday night, can you make that meeting? If so, please bring the lifting strap that goes on the right side of the engine and tools for holding the harmonic balancer, cam pulleys and the timing belt tensioner compressing tool that you had offered.

LMK if you can make Thursday night's meeting so I don't waste John's time. Do you need the MC also?


Doc, I no longer need the booster unless the one I got at Davis fails. I work second shift so I won't make the meeting. I will be in Huntsville tomorrow if you can meet me and give you the tools or I can drop them somewhere. Just let me know, always up for a little road trip to get out.

John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 50Willys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 January 2016 at 11:34am
Hey John, If you can't meet with Doc, I'm going to the meeting so I can get the tools from you Thursday and take them to the meeting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 January 2016 at 12:24pm
Originally posted by 50Willys 50Willys wrote:

Hey John, If you can't meet with Doc, I'm going to the meeting so I can get the tools from you Thursday and take them to the meeting.


How would you like to coordinate?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 50Willys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 January 2016 at 3:18pm
I can come to your house around 3:00 PM tomorrow. You still live on Eastwood?
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Sounds good to me, PM sent. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 January 2016 at 2:57am
John and Bob, thanks much for doing this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 January 2016 at 10:42am
Doc, I also have the FSM's (3 manuals) for my 99 4runner if they would be of any help. Just let me know.

John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2016 at 1:59am
Progress....  The engine got the old oil pan removed in prep for the relocated sump.  The valve covers were removed and new seals installed, valve covers replaced.  The damaged harmonic-balancer/pulley was removed, and the various covers removed to replace the timing belt, belt tensioner and idler pulley/bearing and water pump.  All that stuff is back on, awaiting delivery of a new harmonic balancer.  I still need to drill the dipstick hole and reinstall the oil pan, and put all the wiring back on, and it will be ready to go.

Nick (bluetoy) has offered to help me with the wiring in exchange for some bits from the Taco.  I think this will be a much quicker and lower-risk approach than trying to figure all that wiring out on my own.

J Cross, thanks for the tools - I will get this stuff back to you in a few weeks.  LMK if you need it sooner.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 March 2016 at 7:11am
So its been a while since I updated this.

I got derailed for several weeks for my lovely bride to have knee replacement. She is doing well, but we get to do it all again this fall.



The engine is pretty much ready to go in. We have fabbed a prototype cross exhaust pipe:


This type of fab work is much more difficult than it looks. But we have a tac-welded prototype and the next step is to drag (or push) the old 4rnr into the shop and hang the engine and transmission in it for the first time.

Clearance issues are expected everywhere. If the exhaust crossover clears, then I can look at how much room I have for a heat shield for the firewall (I have a sheet of Al and some woodstove insulation) and heat shields for the clutch slave cylinder and the catalyst. We have fabbed motor mounts and will be able to see how well they are going to fit.

I still have to deal with the evap emissions, relocating the battery the parking brake and speedometer cable. Also the shifter location will require some slight floor modifications. I am hoping that the xfer case brackets will work with minimal modification.

And then there's the electrical system.....

Edited by alabamatoy - 15 March 2016 at 7:21am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 50Willys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 March 2016 at 12:19pm
Kari, Get well soon!!!

Doc, Good progress, hope everything fits!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 March 2016 at 5:48pm
We're building the exhaust out of 304 Stainless steel. We couldn't get the flanges from anywhere so we drew them up in cad and cut them out on my plasma table using some 3/8" 304 plate.



They fit pretty well first attempt. We found we need to slightly enlarge the center hole because the 2" mandrel bent tubing we're using isn't quite round after being bent.


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