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122K w/o an oil change?

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alabamatoy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 122K w/o an oil change?
    Posted: 28 June 2012 at 12:51am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote highspeed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2012 at 2:45am
Damn! I knew a guy that had over 100k on his 1987 Jag with the original oil and it ran like a champ.................I personally don't go more than 3k between oil changes, but thats because i am anal about that part of maintenance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2012 at 2:51am
I use blackstone for oil analysis on my 01 Ford F250 Powerstroke.  When it was my daily driver, I had been running 10K miles between oil changes, and the lab reports were coming back that the oil w/ 10K miles on it exceeded minimum requirements for new oil.
 
Im not advocating 100K+ between oil changes, but I think that clearly 3K oil changes is becoming a hoax perpetrated on the driving public by the companies who sell oil and oil changes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cj8lvr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2012 at 3:36am
I, too, use Blackstone analysis every other oil change on our two Jeeps and have found similar results as you, Doc.  I'm using Mobil1 full synthetic hi-mileage oil (contains additives to help swell seals and gaskets in older engines to help cut down on leaks) and have been very pleased with 5K mile intervals and the (tested and proven) condition of the oil at that interval.  3k mile changes are taboo - especially if using synthetic oils that maitain viscocity and effectiveness in lubrication longer than conventional.  Advance Auto Parts has a deal every two months or so on this oil with 5 quarts and a filter.  Can't beat it anywhere.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote highspeed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2012 at 9:17am
You guys are right.............I know it..........but damn I can't get out of doing that often because I like seeing dirty oil come out, and good oil going in. I worked( still work, but on military absence) for Advance Auto Parts and get discounts on pretty much everything so I get Advance Auto Oil and Oil Filter and change it every 3k or so.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2012 at 3:20pm
Until recently I was using Mobil 1 10w40 extended performance from Walmart, 5 quart jug $28.00. I would change the filter at every 5000 miles and drain the pan at 15,000 miles. Did this with no problems then from what I can tell they the stopped making 10w40, WTH!!! 
 
They do have a high milage 10w40 but I don't need seal conditioners because I replace them when they leak.
 
I worked with a guy at Nissan that drove a Mazda B2000 pu and at the time had 225,000 miles on it and he said he had not drained the pan since 60,000 miles. He was using Royal Purple and replacing the filter once a year. I think in Europe 20,000 miles between oil changes is common.
 
My Mitsubishi pu owners manual said to go 7500 miles on regular oil, I just could not bring myself to do it, 5000 is all I would go.
 
I agree with Doc that short oil change intervals is a marketing scheme, somewhat like that of the value of diamonds = love and all that crap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jarmumd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2012 at 5:22am
I pretty much agree with everything said so far, in my mind the thing is that oil/mile is so cheap compared to gas...  so at 3500 miles if we spend $35 on oil, that's 100 miles / $1...  gas at 20 mpg at $3.20/gal is 6.25 miles / $1...  if you change at 5k, it's 143, 10k would be 285... 

Again, I'm agreeing with everyone here, I had an amsoil double filtration setup on my old truck, but I'm saying that if your goal was to save money, longer intervals on oil really doesn't buy you that much in comparison to mpg...

So to me changing oil every 5k is pretty much cheap insurance (especially on the wifes car where there is +/- 2.5k on when it actually gets to the shop)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpwrangler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2012 at 12:17pm
Porsche recommends changing the oil in my car every 10K miles or once a year.  The recommended oil is Mobile1 0W-40.  I have done that for several years and even track my car 4 to 7 times a year putting about 200 track miles a weekend.  I have used Blackstone as well and all the numbers are within tolerance levels for my engine.  I have recently started to change it every 5K miles.  I expect the numbers to stay the same, but like everyone else I will feel better because the oil company propaganda machine has worked on me - at least to some extent.  

The truck is a similar story.  That oil is nasty right after I change it, but the numbers are still good.  I have tried 10K on the truck and the iron content went up, but everything else is still good.  I still struggle not changing it every 5K.  I guess you can call me a typical consumer when it comes to this.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2012 at 1:29pm
I've always had the philosophy that engines are expensive and oil is cheap. This is of course conventional oil. I've seen inside many engines that have had their synthetic oil changed at 15K intervals. That's to long. They develop sludge problems. I've pulled valve covers off and the sludge makes them look they are still there. I've also had to pull multiple oil pans and clean out the oil pickup screen because they get clogged from the oil breaking down. More than once I've pulled a drain plug and nothing came out. The oil pan had sealed itself. I had to poke through the buildup so the oil could drain. At 122K they aren't on the original oil anyway because the engine would have burned more oil than it holds in the course of 122K.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 August 2012 at 3:01am
I took the valve covers off a BMW 750 yesterday due to the gaskets leaking. This car had 15K mi oil change intervals. All the black stuff in the pictures is sludge. The whole area under the valve covers on both side of the engine looked like this. On a side note, the cam right above the spring in the picture is the valvetronic cam which varies the intake valve lift.






Edited by 83K10 - 10 August 2012 at 3:03am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 98TJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 August 2012 at 3:09am
Originally posted by 83K10 83K10 wrote:

I've always had the philosophy that engines are expensive and oil is cheap.  
Ditto.  And that also goes for tannys, T/C's and R&P's.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 August 2012 at 3:53am
Originally posted by 83K10 83K10 wrote:

I took the valve covers off a BMW 750 yesterday due to the gaskets leaking.
 
It would be really interesting to know how this oil would have come out on Blackstone's analysis.  Its *obviously* carboned up, seriously so.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cj8lvr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 August 2012 at 4:04am

What was the total mileage on that car in the pictures, John?

That's pretty bad.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 98TJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 August 2012 at 4:21am
Another thing that kills motors is HOW the oil is changed.  I change mine when its hot as h3ll and has been running for at least an hour; 3 or 4 hrs is better.  Changing cold oil after all the crap has settled out is a bad idea.  I worked with a guy who's son always changed his T-bird oil cold because he "didn't like getting his fingers burned".  His dad pulled a valve cover at 90k and it looked like a jello mold of grease crud under there.  The only voids where where the rocker arms bobbed up and down.

Edited by 98TJ - 10 August 2012 at 4:21am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 August 2012 at 2:17pm
I'm curious to how Blackstone would rate this oil. I'm not curious enough to pay for a sample to be tested. I'll look Monday to see how many miles are on this one. I see so many cars it's not easy to keep track of stuff like that.

I've seen cars as bad as Brad describes. I just haven't had a camera handy. We've removed valve covers and it looked like they were still there. I've taken a drainplug out and no oil ran out because there was so much sludge in the engine it sealed off the hole. Had to poke through it with a screwdriver to drain the oil. That vehicle had 53K on it. This stuff isn't going to get drained out even if the car is real hot when you change the oil. It's almost plastic like but it kinda crumbles into large chunks. I've had to pull more than one oil pan to clean out the pickup due to this stuff clogging it up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 August 2012 at 6:30am
The car in the above pictures has 70K on it. 
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